These two lug nuts are installed on the outer end of the 80mm stud and locked to each other - this is called "double-nutting", and is done to install screw-in wheel studs without a Allen drive as well as when removing ANY wheel stud that has been loctited in place.

Some tips for installing and using Vorshlag wheel studs. Please see our PDF instructions on our website as well.

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vorshlag > Vorshlag M12x1.5 by 80mm screw-in wheel stud and lug nuts for BMW. The 80mm wheel stud is the only offering without an Allen drive in the end. The lugnuts feature an enlarged conical face for more surface area and a 17mm hex drive.

vorshlag > These two lug nuts are installed on the outer end of the 80mm stud and locked to each other - this is called "double-nutting", and is done to install screw-in wheel studs without a Allen drive as well as when removing ANY wheel stud that has been loctited in place.

vorshlag > 80mm Vorshlag wheel studs being installed. Double-nut each stud with two lugnuts by tightening them against each other using two 17mm wrenches. This will temporarily lock the two lugnuts together and onto the stud. Apply a small drop of red Loctite 262 to the end of the stud then thread it into the hub. Then drive the outer lug nut with a 17mm wrench or socket and it will turn the stud. Drive the stud until the shoulder bottoms onto the hub - but don't kill it! It should tighten firmly, then you will feel it stop. Using the two wrenches loosen the nuts from each other and remove from the stud. Rinse and repeat for each additional wheel stud.

vorshlag > The double-nutted stud can also be installed using a 17mm wrench but the socket/ratchet is usually faster.

vorshlag > The one mistake made by a handful of customers installing the 80mm wheel studs is to not install them completely. The studs should be completely threaded into the hubs until the unthreaded shoulder portion contacts the hub. It will take some force to get them in completely, but if they are installed correctly and completely and using the supplied red thread locker, they won't come out! Don't use an impact installing them so you don't overtorque the studs or strip the hubs.

Note: The 60mm studs (made by a different supplier) we sell have a different "thread class" on the hub side, which has a very different installation procedure. Basically the 60mm studs take a lot less torque to install. Please don't confuse these these with the 80mm studs!

vorshlag > 80mm wheel studs installed onto '97 M3, also equipped with Euro M3 2-piece rotors. Don't forget to use a small dab of Anti-Seize on the lug nut end of the stud threads. Re-apply periodically - a thin coating of anti-seize on the threads will prevent galling and allow accurate torque application. Always torque the lug nuts to 80-85 lb-ft.

vorshlag > Vorshlag Competition 75mm wheel studs installed on the rear of a '97 M3. These can be installed with the 5.5mm Allen wrench included with all 60/75/90mm wheel stud purchases.

vorshlag > These wheel studs are being removed; Vorshlag 60mm and Competition 75/90mm wheel studs can be installed with the supplied 5.5mm Allen wrench, but removal requires the double-nutting technique explained above. The broached hex end of the wheel stud is not strong enough to overcome the break-away torque of a thread locking compound. Using the Allen drive to remove any screw-in wheel stud can and will damage the hex drive end. If this happens its not the end of the world - just double-nut the studs when installing/removing.

vorshlag > 75mm studs and black lugnuts installed on the rear of a '97 M3, using a 5mm spacer. 18x9 ASA wheel picture is to show relative length of stud protrusing from the wheel. If this is more than you care to see, use the 60mm wheel studs.

These two lug nuts are installed on the outer end of the 80mm stud and locked to each other - this is called "double-nutting", and is done to install screw-in wheel studs without a Allen drive as well as when removing ANY wheel stud that has been loctited in place.